Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has always characterized its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
